Thursday, April 24, 2025

Days 8 & 9, 22-23 April Mannheim to Rudesheim. Rhine gorge to Koblenz Germany

 Day 8 Mannheim to Rudesheim

We were up and out to the buses after breakfast today.  They took us half an hour to visit Schwetzingen palace. It is pretty magnificent and huge with two wings and a theatre (although we didn’t see this). It was originally built as a fort in 1350 but was destroyed and rebuilt on several occasions over the decades. Then the elector John Williams built it as their summer palace in the 1700’s –Hard to believe the decadence of how some people lived. The grounds were levelled to allow the carriages to easily transverse the paths. There was also a small roman amphitheatre built in the gardens. The gardens were the most impressive, with trees that have been trained into huge arbours.

We were handed over to a local guide, as with all these cruises and like the previous one – this lady was extremely passionate which is good, but she stood and talked and talked, and talked when people really wanted to move on and see things as we only had limited time. You get to the point where you can’t take any more in! It would be good to know in advance if they framed up the tours so you could choose whether you stayed with a group or wandered around on your own. But it was still good and could’ve spent hours walking around the gardens  

They took us up into the part of the palace that is open for viewing and still has all the furniture from the 1700. Interestingly, the bed was very small… kind of like a king single today and apparently the reason for that was they slept in different beds for space, because in those days they wore elaborate wigs which they must’ve left on – why didn’t they just take them off at night?! But the servants would come and put flea cages on them as well because they were scared of these wigs getting infested! Sounds like there was a lot of vanity and the olden days instagram- didn’t want to be caught out not looking perfect!

We also saw the room where the toilet which really was a commode was kept and the electors were very confident in themselves, so if they summoned people to come and listen to them or speak with them, you didn’t refuse. But if they needed the toilet, they would get the servant to wheel the commode into the room and they would sit down and go whilst still discussing the affairs of the day!

 It was very dark and heavy inside the palace rooms and again the guide was holding us in each room for long periods talking – we had forgotten the water bottles so got quite dry and it felt so stuffy it was almost claustrophobic, so just before it ended we went out of a door marked as the exit. Ended up putting us in some back stairwell and no way to go back ha ha! A woman appeared out of the blue so we told her we were just trying to get out!

We went and sat outside and bought a drink from the souvenir shop. We also bought a pretty, miniature hazelnut liquor bottle for Alison from San Francisco on our tour. They had approached us in the morning and asked if we would like to share her significant birthday with them for dinner on board the ship, so we wanted to get her something where we could. It was either alcohol or a tray of strawberries lol :-). There were those and fresh asparagus for sale on the stalls outside. 

It’s a pity we didn’t have time to wander the colourful town with beautiful architecture cos the tour had taken so long, but it was time to get back  So onto the buses and out of Mannheim, onto the ship for lunch. We decided to keep it tiny so we got a very small bowl of pasta and went and sat up on the top deck with a beer, as it is finally stopped raining. Was very nice sitting up there enjoying the view as for the first time we are sailing during the day and headed for Rudesheim. We sailed through to about 8 pm so around 6 hours free time on board the ship.

They don’t have a lot going on entertainment wise but after about 8 km of walking, it’s good to relax. We had dinner in the restaurant onboard with Alison and David, they bought out a cake and everybody sang happy birthday – it was lovely to share her special birthday together and David ordered some champagne. 

Then the four of us we were able to walk into the town after – Graeme and I have been there before and have to say it was a real disappointment bringing us in so late as the town was closed. So compared to the previous time it was dead and all we could do was walk around and look at the beautiful old buildings. Although to be fair, there was one restaurant that had Neil Diamond’s “Sweet Caroline” playing on the dance floor, so we stood out on the street and sang to it! It was funny :-). 

But overall everybody felt it was pointless putting us off in the dark to a town that was closed – it would be better if they worked the itinerary into being in port during the daytime.

The last time we visited here, a lot of people tried the famous Rudesheim coffee where they have coffee, chocolate, whipped cream and then they light it on fire so it has this blue flame coming off  it!

Still, we had a lovely walk and then headed back to the ship and showers in bed.



  





 
Asparagus is a specialty here & in season 








Day 9- Rhine Gorge to Koblenz
We had a better nights sleep last night as we were moored and didn’t sail through the night. The juddering and movement seems to wake most people, so was better this time. Plus that meant we sailed through the Rhine Gorge in daylight - we remembered it from our 2015 trip. The vineyards that sit on such vertical fields are impressive and the towns along the Rhine are so quaint. 

It was cold up on the sun deck, but we went up there for a walk around the walking track then i grabbed Graeme a blanket they have for the cold and we watched the scenery. So, so pretty as we could see on the curves of the river all the way behind us to the towns in front!

We went and got some toast and a hot drink then spoke to Julie & Justus from Utah who we went on the e-bike tour with the other day. They were planning on riding around Koblenz on the e-bikes when we dock rather than the included walking tour with a guide. So we grabbed the bikes and rode around to the Kaiser Wilhelm monument (emperor of Prussia) on the convergence of the Moselle & the Rhine rivers, climbed the steps & had a great view out.

Then we rode round to the parliament buildings, also impressive. Koblenz has a lovely feel & has an old & a new town as many have due to extensive bombings during WWll. We rode through the old town then needed to get back for the German lunch onboard. We all would have liked more time to ride but the lunch had smelt so good this morning, when they were cooking it!

We walked in, to be handed a big glass of German beer - danke schon!!! The lunch -omg, it was amazing and we have eaten traditional German food a number of times before, but this was up there with it. Veal Weiner schnitzel that was really tender, pork knuckle & crackling that were a.m.a.z.i.n.g & lots of different German sausages for Graeme (Boo to being allergic to them). There was also most excellent Mac n cheese & sauerkraut. For dessert they had nougat balls which weve never had before - they were almost like a crumbed bread with hot Nutella inside !!!!! What a feast- had to go & thank the head chef 😃!

After lunch one of the other passengers knocked on our door to ask if we were going biking as they were going on on them, but we had a few things to do & planned to go walking a bit more in the town and see it on foot. Tidied up then went for about a 8km walk. We were feeling tired, so headed back- we are both feeling so sore body wise & constantly fatigued. The sleeps havent been great & probably the jet lag from such a long trip over is catching up. Think once you relax too, you get more tired!

A quiet dinner tonight - people are feeling the activities are somewhat lacking for an upmarket river cruise company like Emerald & we dont remember it like this on the cheaper Travelmarvel cruise we did years ago. It is still lovely to be on though, just a lot of downtime & sailings at night which mean disturbed sleep & missing seeing the landscape/lochs we go through. There are a nice group of people onboard - many older (some you wonder if they are ok as they are unsteady on their feet) right through to people in their 40’s to mid 60’s. 

It’s funny. I was looking at my phone today and all the Spark texts I’ve been getting as we’ve gone along– you can actually see the countries you were flying over in the plane as spark picks them up too! My list so far……
-  welcome to Indonesia.
– welcome to Singapore.
– welcome to Malaysia.
– welcome to Turkey.
– welcome to Romania.
– welcome to Austria.
– welcome to Germany.
– welcome to France.
- welcome to Germany again!😁😊




 




Koblenz

 
 





Tuesday, April 22, 2025

Day 6 & 7, 20-21st April Breisach to Kehl (Germany) & Strasbourg (across the river in France)

Day 6 Breisach 

Had a very up-and-down night but we were up proper today at 7am and over to breakfast at 8am. A slightly later start today – Easter has meant that many things are closed where we are travelling so the ship staff work hard to keep everyone entertained.

We had booked the e-bike tour along the Rhine river, There are only 20 bikes so we were happy we secured spots. It was lots of fun zooming around and also getting to know the other passengers. We had a very knowledgeable young guy called Emmy who took us around and explained the area, then we stopped at a hotel in this little country area which apparently has been in the family for 7 generations and the owner gave us his 25min speech about the hotel and his life. They have developed into a large restaurant, accommodation and a spa. You would not believe it from the outside in this quiet little place. It was pumping today though with it being Easter Sunday and the food they had looked really nice. His wife was the chef so he said that’s how they kept the place running ha ha!

We were given black forest gateaux and the owner came around and poured kirsch cherry schnapps over it, served with a hot chocolate or coffee – it was delicious!

Back on our e-bikes and we cycled back a different way, Everything is long and flat here – very like Twizel canals! 

It started to rain and got very cold so we all zoomed back and onto the ship to warm up. Then lunch was ready, a huge buffet with baked ham with the pastry wrapped around it – it was so delicious. We are trying to watch what we eat but things are feeling tight already ha ha!

We went back and had a rest– Actually fell asleep for an hour in the afternoon, what a treat! Got ourselves ready and then to the trivia game, some of those questions were quite obscure as there were riddles as well – we got 12 out of 20, so was okay- just! Then they had to talk about what’s on for the next day and the staff came in and were introduced before dinner. 

We have been sitting with different people every night – mainly Americans, so interesting to talk to. We had gone on the bike tour after speaking with the group from Utah yesterday who were doing it and then today we were talking to a couple at dinner, Alison & David who are from San Francisco and Portland. He has retired and is in San Fran and she is still working up in Portland and they get together every couple of months. Could be hard!

After that we went upstairs where a couple came on board who played cowbells! The husband Mike has been playing them since he was 7 years old and Anita his wife was also very proficient. It was kind of funny but a lot of skill in it as well –Graeme said he wanted to buy the CD😆! The funny thing was they have got a ringtone on their website you could download! back to our room when that finished at 10 pm – where has the day gone?



                        Gorgeous Americans on our cruise, glad they told us about the bike tour

                                         Being a big kid!!😂😂


The owner of the hotel we visited for Black Forest gateaux with cherry schnapps


Back on the ship 

Day 7 Kehl & Strasbourg

Today we were up ready for the coach transfer to Strasbourg from Kehl, where we are docked. The ship seems to do the travel through the night, the downside being that you dont see the lochs. We missed breakfast as weve been eating so much! So jumped on the coach & into town in about 20 mins. Strasbourg is such an old town, although many buildings have been replaced after bombings in WWll. it is on the French side and Kehl on the German side of the river, but they have gone back & forth for ownership between the 2 countries, over the past 100 yrs apparently. We had a guide who did a 2 1/2 walking tour, he talked pretty much the whole time, so lost me at some point as it was just too much to take in! 

He took us to Strasbourg Cathedral which is magnificent & while there they announced the Pope had passed away, on a very significant day as well, being Easter Monday. It was quite surreal standing in this huge Catholic church & hearing the news- then they began ringing the many church bells for ages. Within 1/2 hour, there were queues of Catholics lining up to go inside to pay their respects and there were also French army guards with machine guns, suddenly all around the church outside. Quite eerie!

It was pretty wet, so after the visit (we were lucky to have been in the church before the news),I was very glad I had heeded my thoughts & not my husbands! & bought collapsible umbrellas before we left home - came in very handy today! When we were finally let lose for an hour we went to a Starbucks for a lovely hot drink - man they are huge! Warmed up a little then back to the pick up spot & the guide walked us back to the bus for the ride back to the ship.

We went to the ship restaurant & had a lovely hot lunch, some spaghetti in olive oil, plus pork belly (the crackling was amazing) washed down with a beer for me & a white wine for Graeme. Quite the lunch!






Strasbourg Cathedral





Sunday, April 20, 2025

Days 4 & 5, 18-19th April Zurich & Lucerne, Basel

Walked 11.5 km's - 15,020 steps today!


We woke up after a great sleep catching up with our 1st full night of sleep after 2 days of travel. Our body clocks were a bit up the wop with waking at 1am, but then went back to sleep.

Ive decided to post costs as we go along, for interest & people have asked & it's always so hard to remember when you are moving around countries!

Brekky at the hotel, then we walked back to the train station to go to Lucerne today- it’s a 1 hr trip. Tickets for 2nd class were 110CHF = $236 for 2 !!! An easy ride there, then we wandered around town. We loved the vibe of Lucerne- preferred it to Zurich which is more grungy. We walked over the Chapel Bridge which dates back to The 14th century. It was adorned with a set of paintings from the 17th century and is beautifully cool to walk under its roof while crossing the water.

I have a photo of Mum & Dad when they came here in 1984 & visited the Lion of Lucerne monument, which always fascinated me as a teenager of 16. I had done some research and we decided it was worthwhile to go to Lucerne to visit and it was definitely worth it. It was only about a 10 min walk to the monument, with a little pond in front of it. It always flips my mind that you visit places where people you know have been and the only thing separating you is time! Its like our family have photos of my Grandfather standing in front of Stone Henge (touching it), then a generation later my Mum standing in front of it, then another generation later, me doing the same but it was then roped off- but we are all in the same place. Only 66 years separating us all from each other.....

Anyway, we spent quite a while at the monument, just sitting on a bench watching all the visitors (& Graeme having a bird shit on his shoulder! Isn't that meant to be lucky?!), then we walked back to town- not much open as its Easter Friday, but we did go into an open chocolate store & bought a small bag of little chocolate eggs $40! And then went to a great little pub along the waterfront with a really friendly waitress. She suggested beers which we really nice and we had lunch. Graeme had a spicy sausage in a bun & 2 beers while I had a Brie burger with sweet potato fries a beer & a coke. The burger was insanely good! Total was $175 , the waitress was saying the Switzerland is the most expensive country in Europe & she isnt wrong, its more than double the NZD- pretty much what it is in CHF, it literally translates to the figure it is at home eg/ a burger thought would be $28 NZD is 28 CHF. Unfortunately, it isn't the same at the bank end haha 😜, but it is what it is & you just have to suck it up.

We wandered back over the chapel bridge and onto the train back to Zurich. We decided not to go out for dinner tonight as it will be too much after lunch, so bought a couple of salad rolls & a bottle of coke- $50 nzd. Back to our hotel, so much easier to find today now we know our way! Its been chilly but nice today & it has warmed up to 20C this afternoon. A lovely day & just fighting a bit of jet lag later in the afternoon, so off for a walk around the river to stay awake to an appropriate hour. 
There are bars across the road - although last night it was just people outside drinking & talking unti 1am, so hopefully it will be ok tonight. The hotel leave ear plugs in your room which is a first! We are off tomorrow afternoon to the airport for pick up to our river cruise anyway, so it’s all good.








Day 5, 19th April Zürich – Basel

We both woke at 2 am again this morning, must be to do with the time difference! But went back to sleep and got up at our leisure this morning, down to breakfast and spoke to reception who said we can check out at 12pm instead of 11am. It's great here that checkouts are later than in NZ. 
Mooched around and repacked properly, then we walked over to Zürich train station and got tickets to the airport. Allowed ourselves plenty of time to get there and find the right place for our river cruise pick up with Emerald cruises. This is a 7 day 'Rhine &the Tulips' cruise.

Bought some fruit at the airport for lunch and asked for directions to the terminal ( my motto, if in doubt - ask!), found the cruise information desk and settled down to wait for the pick up an hour later. it's interesting in Zurich airport, you can use the free wi-fi if you scan your passport or boarding pass, it gives you a code and then you can get online!

We got picked up about 2 pm and all onto the coach for a 1 hr 20 drive to Basel. It's funny we were passing signs to turn off to go to Karlsruhe which we drove through and stayed, when we did a road trip down the Rhine with our friends Rudy and Anna, some years ago – what a great adventure that was! 
Where we are going now– Basel, has a French side and a German side and you can literally stand on one side of the bridge where we docked and you are in Germany and walk to the other side and you are in France!

Got on board and into our room, very nice with floor to ceiling glass windows – you can press a button in the top half comes down like a french balcony, now that would be a good idea for a home :-).

We unpacked our bags – love that, as I really hate living out of a suitcase! It's been really hot today after cold days previously, it was 23°! Got our info and they went round everyone on board once we all got into the lounge – very surprised that we are the only Kiwis onward!😳😊, There are a few Aussies lots of Americans, a Jamaican, some people from Brazil, Ireland, UK, Wales and Canadians, so a very diverse group.

The last river cruise we did was predominantly Australians so it was a surprise that there were no other New Zealanders and so many Americans here today.

We sat by a couple of ladies from Australia while we were having a drink and turns out they live in Albion Park where Graeme used to work in New South Wales!! And then we sat next to some Americans from Utah for dinner and they had mutual acquaintances with friends we've had for a long time – they are all members of the Mormon church; so it is such a small world out there!

Back to the room early as we are starting to feel pretty tired any will be on the go every day this week. Surprised how fast the river boat moves too. – it is much bigger than the one we did years ago, And it's great watching it go into the lochs and the water rise and then fall as we go out. We are really chugging along too – almost sets off my vertigo! We are contemplating a guided bike tour tomorrow as they have E bikes on board which spoils you! Either that or a walking tour – we are off to Breisach pronounced “Bry- sahik”. 
On the way from Zürich airport to Basel for the river cruise with Emerald
Emerald destiny







Breisach - on the border between Germany & France