Days 32 & 33, 26-27 April Turkey - Copenhagen

Day 32-

God what a day! We got to the Ataturk airport in Istanbul - they have an xray screener right at the outside door before you can walk in and unfortunately for us there was an Indian guy in front of us, who turned out to be a tour leader. He systematically squeezed his entire tour group who hadnt been in the line, in front of everyone who was in line - very frustrating. There were masses of people and we ended up standing in 2 different lines trying to get to check in. After over 2 hours and not having moved at all, I grabbed a staff member and explained that we were going to miss our flight. She told me they would sort it and took us out of the line, but having passed us on to another staff member it became apparent we were not getting on our plane.

There had been a plane that had landed on fire the day before and all those passengers had obviously been offloaded and then had been given all of todays passengers, seats on their on-going flights?!! But the airline had not notified anyone. What a mess and we were so knackered after  the last couple of days.

In the end they gave us what I thought was a very generous 400 euros each for the delay (which turned out to be 12 hours?!@#!),  so I made them let us into the poor mans business class lounge so at least it was more comfortable. What can you do???

We finally boarded the 3 1/2 hour flight to Copenhagen, which I dont remember at all now! but unfortunately realised once we were off and had got a taxi to the Admiral hotel in Nyhavn, that I didnt have my ipad! I had been writing up my blog and must have left it accidentally in my seat pocket- we were so tired and I wasnt thinking right obviously.


Day 33-

Was up late last night, trying to contact Turkish airlines about leaving my iPad on my seat on the plane. I was told you can't call anyone in lost property for some stupid reason, so had to fill in an online form and wait. They are meant to contact you within 24 hours.

Got to bed at 2 am, which was really 3 am Istanbul time and got up this am, after enjoying wonderfully soft beds again, although typically like in Germany, they are a double bed base with 2 single top mattress and separate duvets on each side....they are comfy - heaven. The hotel is really cool, it was built in the 1700's and was a massive storage warehouse for the docks. There was massive wooden beams everywhere and staff tell us that 95% of them are the original ones.

The Danes are all very calm and extremely friendly, even the security guard at the airport last night was gentle and very helpful, all 6 ft something of healthy male like they all seem to be here! There is no rush or stress, getting off the plane last night - I have never seen such calm order before, no rushing or frantic need to get off and get through.

I tried to ph Turkish Airlines again this am about how to sort the compensation cheque we were given in Istanbul. Couldn't cash it as we got in so late last night their office was shut. The call centre girl was useless and had no idea what to do. After that we decided to go back to the airport today while the office is open to sort it face to face.

We thought we would try the tube, after getting a taxi last night. It's easy to get train tickets and its a direct line to Copenhagen airport so we went out and the staff at the airport office, easily put the compensation onto our visa. In Istanbul, their office didn't know what to do! She also rang about my iPad but no one had handed it in so went down to lost and found but they didn't have it either. The man there was pretty sure the cleaners would hand it in if they found it and people do seem very honest here, but he said it can take a few days, so will try again and also email to ask for an investigation as they suggested.

What a pain this all is! We were really tired when we landed cos we had spent all day waiting for the later flight and I put the iPad in the side of my seat and the cushion must have covered it. Hope I get it back cos my whole life is on that!

Anyhow, have done all we can. Trained back to Nyhavn ('New-how-n') and went for a walk around the very picturesque area along the docks which is all eateries now. It was a beautiful clear sunny day and we sat in the sun and enjoyed lunch. The Danes are right into fish and it is melt in your mouth fresh. Wandered around the shops- it's quite hard to work out costs as the currency is massive amounts eg/ the taxi was 300 Danish krone which is about $55. I had written down a few conversions though so we know what we are looking at. We were told that it is really trendy and the clothes etc are really well designed which they are. Everything is symmetrical from buildings, to the roads too.

Came back to the hotel and crashed for a couple of hours and a quiet evening in as Graeme is still pretty unwell and spending a lot of time either in the bathroom or laying down with his stomach and fever on and off.

Days 30 & 31, 24th - 25th April Gallipoli 100 year Commemoration

We were up early and sorted leaving our suitcases at the Selal Hotel. Graeme wasnt feeling good this morning after the pizza he had at a Irish Pub hotel in the middle of Istanbul - thought we would be safe eating there - but alas it turned out not later on! 

(We found out ages later,that he had actually contracted Campylobactor from that pizza which had big pieces of unpasturised cheese on it and he walked around with it for 2 1/2 months before getting diagnosed & treated. It led on to I.B.S and his gut hasnt been the same since unfortunately.)

We walked to the pick up point in the park with just a backpack and a small sleeping bag- since you need to carry everything you bring, we kept it light, even though it was going to be cold overnight. Its great that the hotel we came to again this trip, is in the perfect area to walk to the park!

There were thousands of people milling around and we found our group - then for a looooongggg wait 1 1/2hours after everyone else left for Gallipoli, the 2 missing bus passengers finally turned up. The guides had been yelling "Cheryl? Cheryl, wheres Cheryl" for them long after we were meant to be on the road. An Aussie guy and his wife turned out to be "Cheryl". He was sporting a big white haired mullet, in old trackies carrying a sleeping bag  tied up with a belt?!! Graeme thinks their luggage was lost and they were held up at the airport - hence the flow on affect with the hold up.

Got on the road - we have done this trip before in 2007 and remember that the roads were pretty rough back then. Roll on 8 years and I dont think they have been tarsealed since!! Really bad potholes but not too bad in the coach.
We had a couple of stops and were meant to get the 'last supper' at a servo type roadhouse, but by the time we got there they had run out of food and the queue to the not pleasant toilets was so long that we couldnt go before the bus left again - bit of a disaster but what can you do?! 

The 6 hour trip took 13 hours with all the checkpoints and coaches as far as the eye could see- was quite the sight and all pretty exciting, although everyone was pretty tired by the time we finally arrived late into the night.


There were many checkpoints to get through once we arrived at ANZAC cove, with regular and blue beret soldiers stationed every few metres for kms, with machine guns ready. Because of all the royalty and top military people, it was very closely watched. I had seen on the news at home they were worried about a terrorist attack.

 

As more and more people arrived they had to put the squeeze on, to get people to sit up. Those who had arrived earlier had been able to lay out in their sleeping bags but it had been made clear in the paperwork,  that with ANZAC Cove usually seating 4500 people for ANZAC day - and there being 12,000 tonight, that you would have to sit or stand and no laying down would be possible. It was tricky, as naturally some people didnt want to sit up - mainly 20-somethings and they had to keep telling them.
In the end one Aussie guy stood up when they were ignoring requests, and yelled that they needed to remember why they were here,what it was about and for gods sake to sit up and think of others. That worked well, along with Graeme going up the back to a few rows of people and telling them all clearly that they needed to get up like everyone else, show some humanity and respect and to let people in.

Everyone was given a red 'Diggers at dawn 2015 commemoration' jacket to keep warm.

As it got tighter it naturally compressed and there was definitely no room to lay down, but that was part of the atmosphere which felt pretty special in the dark. As the night wore on they had commentaries playing on the big screen that was set up in ANZAC cove, where the main commemoration was being held. There were high school students who got up to speak and exerts out of war diaries read, along with stories of the Gallipoli campaign. It was a long night and as you werent able to lay down, everyone got a little fuzzy and spaced out but the air was pretty electric. A lovely english couple gave us a food pack they had been given on their bus since we hadnt had anything to eat for dinner, which was lovely.

Graeme was still feeling pretty yuck, starting getting hot and cold sweats and at one point in the ceremony where we had been asked to stand for a couple of hours, he started to sway & said he was going to pass out. Sat him down at my feet and helped as much as I could until he felt a little better.
As dawn approached,  a fleet of naval ships slipped silently across the bay - about 6 of them - it was so still you could hear the waves lapping despite there being so many thousands of people there. They read the ode and the last post was played. It was all very surreal in the cold mist with so many anzacs standing shoulder to shoulder. The NZ & Australian prime ministers both spoke and then we were instructed to gather into the groups according to your allocated number, to walk up to either Lone Pine for the Aussies, or Chunuk Bair for the Kiwis.

   

The walk up was quite hard, it was a long way for the NZers, but imagine what it was like for the soldiers who endured it in harsher conditions and under fire as well, I told myself. Graeme was still feeling pretty awful with a crook gut and a fever, so I carried his backpack up the steepest part as he was not well.

We reached Chunuk Bair after about an hour or so then everyone rested while we waited for the next ceremony. It was an awesome atmosphere with exerts on the screens about NZers, some Maori songs that tore at your heartstrings and the national anthem - something we will always remember this day.

I remember spotting Helen Clarke behind the royalty, wearing a blalck beanie and sunnies. She was funny and stood up and took a couple of selfies of herself with the crowd! - she is living in the States now, so was good to see her there.  Princes Charles and Harry were there and Prince Harry especially, gave an awesome speech and he read from a soldiers diary - another good speech was from John Key. It was all really moving and everyone felt their allegiance so far from home, but on the shores of the battleground where so many men fell.

It was a long wait after it had finished and they moved us on again to another area and there were so many people trying to find spots out of the wind, but everyone rested on the grass until our bus was called. I remember the number "256" being called finally and there was a huge cheer from everyone on our bus. We met some lovely Australians along the way and we all had lots to chat about on the long trip home. It was a once in a lifetime event that we were lucky enough to be a part of - so grateful we got in on the 2nd ballot!

After being up and upright! for over 48 hours, we got back in late to Istanbul and our hotel about midnight. Up early tomorrow to fly out to Copenhagen. We have arranged a transfer to get us there.

Days 28-29, 22 & 23 April Istanbul-Old City

Day 28-

Was nice to wake without an alarm today, although still woke about the same time! We had breakfast then out to wander around. It is raining today and alternated between downpours and light rain. Got a couple of umbrellas from the hotel and wandered just around the corner to the Basilica Cistern (a massive city underground water reservoir) which was built in the 6th Century, can you believe? Even before that a great basilica stood on the site, in the 3rd century and a lot of the columns in the cistern were re-used from other buildings - such as the 2 Medusa heads columns. One is sideways and the other inverted.

Its surprisingly warm and there are large carp swimming in it here and there. It is a huge underground cavern to be in when you are under the street in the very gloomy light!
I fair karked myself though, when all of a sudden what little light there is, flickered and one - then all the lights went out completely and we were plunged into pitch blackness that felt like it was crushing you. Im not a panicker but I instantly felt terrible claustrophobia and called out to Graeme who was a little way away but everyone else was yelling too, so we just stood still. I was just about to find the torch on my phone, when the lights thankfully came back on-that was truly scary!

We wandered round a bit more then went back onto the street and walked to the Grand Bazaar. You soon learn not to even be polite to the hawkers out on the street, by saying no thank you as they go into their spiel- 'You Kiwi? Kia Ora' or mainly we got 'Hello, you German - Guten Morgen' because of Graemes moustache, they all seem to think he was German and it happened about half a dozen times!!!

There are some really beautiful things in there, like the glass lamp shades that are so exotic, but too hard to get home but I bartered hard to get some table runners and scarves I really liked that will go well with things at home.

We walked back to the hotel and stopped to get a lamb wrap for lunch- everything is so cheap here- they were about $3 each. Went back to the hotel and Graeme had a sleep then we walked back down the road as we are so close to town, for a stroll as this seems to be a national pastime here- along with all the Aussies, Kiwis and English in town! The shop hawkers are at you constantly and Graemes mou continued to draw attention from a lot of the young men and they call out to him a lot about it.

Day 29 -

We both woke in the night with sore necks- the bed is hard and the pillows are soft, so our beanie pillows are coming in handy! We had breakfast then went out walking to find the pick up point for tomorrows Gallipoli trip. Its just down the road at Gulhane Park- how did we ever miss this last stay? Behind all the crammed in city is the massive park that sits behind the Hagia Sophia mosque. Flowers out everywhere and people strolling through it. Found where we need to go tomorrow after a bit of a tiki tour, then wandered into town to get supplies for anzac day. You can only take a backpack which has to have everything- small sleeping bag, change of clothes, jackets, food etc. We are just taking the essentials and there will also be food on site they say. It has rained here on and off the past 2 days in Istanbul but its looking ok for Gallipoli. We have stuff to keep as dry and warm as you can be anyway.

Walked to the Blue Mosque but unfortunately caught it when prayers were on and then just as it closed,so walked to a much smaller moque and had a look. Women have to cover their heads now, which I knew so we were able to go in. Women have to go upstairs to pray!

We walked to Mc Donalds for a sundae as neither of us was hungry, then wandered back down to the parks via the mosques and obelisks in the square.

There are hawkers everywhere and a few beggars in town, but we passed a young couple with 2 very small children on a backstreet walking in the cold. He unfolded a sign which said "we are from Syria, can you please help us". We walked on but the more I thought about it, the more I thought they looked genuine and they were all thin and had that hopeless look of despair in their eyes. The father was wearing jandals and there has been no-one (except me) wearing them! So we went the same way back to see if they were still there- if they were, then we werent meant to give them something. The lira currency is worth half of our dollar so it isnt much to us.
They were gone and we felt for them as the wife and kids stayed back and they didnt use the children for begging. Then Graeme saw them down another street so we crossed over and gave them some money which they appreciated. If they are from Syria and are trying to get away from an awful life, we cant imagine what its like and its easy to turn away. Wish we could do more though.

Got back to the hotel and packed up ready for our trip tomorrow. The hotel are keeping our suitcases for us till we come back on the 25th, where we will stay one last night before leaving for Denmark.

Days 26-27, 20th& 21 April. Amsterdam & Istanbul

Day 26-

Today was an early start as we were off to the Aalsmeer bright and early. Holland has a 15 billion dollar flower industry and provides 62% of the global flowers, yet they are something like 0.02% of the population! Quite a feat.

The flower auction is so massive its almost incomprehensible. Its starts at 6am and is all finished later in the morning by about 9am. They are very clever also to market this to tourists as you walk along above all the action and can see it all happening, while being out of the way. There were hundreds of staff on carts zooming around in apparent bedlam with scanners, getting the flowers that had been bid on and won. The auction is now all electronic, but used to be like the manual stock exchange with lots of noise. Surprisingly the buyers were all men apart from 2 women!

We spent an hour or so there, then back to the Okura hotel for a much needed cuppa and breakfast, before going out again to Ruks ('Rikes') museum. We had our group photo taken next to the "I AM AMSTERDAM" statue, then were taken for a guided tour by the local history guy through the museum to see famous paintings. They have the massive "Nightwatch" painted by Rembrandt and the guide told us some really interesting things about what certain things in paintings represented - as in; in the 1700's, if a women had her neck showing, she was a prostitute and paintings with salt and pepper shakers in them, portrayed wealth as they were very expensive to buy.

Then we went outside into the sun and had a baguette with an Australian couple Guy and Carmella. Caught a taxi together back to the hotel as the bus was still a couple of hours away. Did a total repack for tomorrows departure to Turkey.

Out at 5pm for a canal cruise and then the farewell dinner in the heart of the city- this has been a great tour, with a great driver and tour director. Being a small group of 32- with 10 of them being chinese friends who did their own thing, our group were all friendly and nice.

Dinner was with much hilarity and then Nathalie took us for a walk through the red light district- very different at night compared to when we came during the day a few weeks ago. She said the girls rent a window for a shift and the girls at night were very sexy, full of silicone and wearing florescent clothes (or lack of them) which made them glow in the light! They seem to have a thing for wearing reading glasses to make them look more intelligent- even though they obviously dont need them for reading lol!

Back to the hotel in the bus and a late night, before departing tomorrow! Really loved the last 3 or so weeks with the river cruise and coach tour. Now off to do our own thing.

Day 27-
Were able to sleep in till 7.30am today and bags out by 8.30. Had our breakfast (its $60 pp here can you believe, if you come here on your own?!) The coach took us to Schipol Airport. Check in easy as we were early and its a 3 1/2 hr flight. We had to go through a body scanner at the gate and after exiting with everything intact still! we boarded. I asked for exit row and they are great seats in the front. The plane wasnt very full so we were really lucky. The flight only took 3 hours in the end and they served a full meal and drinks which was nice. Impressed with Turkish Airlines.

We got our transfer in- the roads arent that great with lots of works going on and along the Mirimar sea side, there are now century towers with guards (with machine guns) in some of them. Surprisingly the airport here was very low key, although saw armed police with mean looking machine guns - didnt dare take photos!

Checked in at the Celal Sultan where we stayed in 2007 and are in room 315 with a view of Hagia Sophia mosque, we are just down the hallway from the room we had when we visited with Danni. Went out for a wander in the old town which is lively and full of foreigners, all very relaxed. I remember it was surprisingly laid back when we last came to what you think a Muslim country would be like. Had a delicious meal at a kebab place with drinks for $35, the lamb here is delicious and the flavours bring back memories, nothing processed and very flavoursome.

We went into the hotel bar for a beer before bed and ran into about a dozen aussies all enjoying a few 'pots'! They are all going to Gallipoli too. Never seen so many in one place over here!!! They were funny and we all had a few laughs.

Days 10 & 11. 4-5th April Nuremberg- Regenburg-Degendorf

Day 10-

Today we docked in Nuremberg or as the Germans say 'Nurnberg'. This city first appeared in records in 1050 & is the 2nd largest state in the state of Bavaria (its in the county of Franconia). The castle where most of the photos are taken was built in the 11th century. Most of the city was destroyed  during WW II- in 90 minutes! Its also as many know, the site where Hitler chose to hold his Nazi party rallies.

This is a statue of Seigfried slaying the dragon, which relates to the first castle in Bonn- Drachenburg castle that we visited.

We visited the Zepplin field, also the site of the 'cathedral of lights'. Hitler did this as many of the men who attended the march, were not part of his 'perfect Arian propoganda' so his architect designed the light show to pull the focus away from the older, unfit 'non-perfect' men!  It is a solemn place, which has now been much dismantled to deter neo nazis pilgrimages.

The bus took us on a tour past where the Nuremberg trials were held in 1946, to bring Nazis and SS to trial. I think 10 were executed, a couple had already died or committed suicide & a few acquitted. The buildings where they were held are very impressed - apart from a bright blue modern 'Pit stop' shop smack in the front of this wonderful architecture?!

The city struck me as very grey and imposing, it didnt hold much beauty as Hitler loved the grey stone/block style you see a lot here.

It was really freezing today- about 2C, so we bought some gloves when we were set loose in the market platz where the easter stalls are.
Back to the ship for a nice nannie nap- after the late night dancing last night! and a lovely dinner in the evening.

Day 11 -

We are in Regenburg  - "Reagan-burg" this morning on our wedding anniversary. Where have 29 years gone?! Its also Easter Sunday, which is a nice celebration onboard, but also meant all the shops were shut! We had a walking tour this morning around the quaint city. They have lovely shops with very expensive prices so maybe just as well they are all shut. We did find a cafe to warm up with hot chocolate and coffee though, its really cold in the shade, but a beautiful blue sky day.

A beautiful spring day :-)

We came back to find our cabin had been visited by the easter bunny! and the teddy bears I had bought, on the bed with the chocolates.

Lori-dana who does the cabin cleaning is so nice - the staff onboard work 10 months on every day, 2 months off. They work a long time with no days off. They are mostly from Poland, Latvia, Hungary and other eastern european countries and their english is pretty good.

We are having Bavarian day on board today, so meals will include traditional sausages and beer! Think we will try and keep a low profile today as the staff at the front desk, said Happy Anniversary to Graeme when he went to get our off shore passes today! Hopefully no singing etc haha, although it is another passengers birthday today as well,  which is nice.

We came back to our cabin to find our bed decorated and a card signed by the staff for our anniversary- very spoilt!




We docked in Deggendorf this evening, so a group of us went out walking in the town after dinner in the evening, it was lovely to walk and talk.
Then some Bavarian Oompa musicians came onboard and were very good- including playing a yard glass like a trumpet!